21-11-2005
Champagne Henri Giraud’s new vintage « ESPRIT »
My grandfather used to say: “However young, ripe or old a wine is, it must always be good; it is a question of equilibrium.” Today, when asked the eternal question about the style of Giraud-Hémart Champagne, I answer imperturbably: PLEASURE, MATURITY, and TERROIR.
Indeed, what terroir could express a whine whose grapes are green? What other pleasure could it bring to those who drink it than flattering their intellect? Here is an obvious fact that nevertheless causes a great stir at present in the wine’s world. And it is specially emphasized in the Champagne region whose wine is often associated with momentary pleasure, feast, success, more than with the emotion brought by a great wine. Isn’t it linked with the bad but persistent habit of many winegrowers to pick the grapes before they are ripe? With the vintage Henri Giraud Aÿ Grand Cru Fût de chêne 1995 or 1996, one the 5 greatest international vintages, you can be sure that the thrill will be here. The vintage “ESPRIT de GIRAUD” answers other questions such as: Can we add pleasure to a festive Champagne for friends, to a Champagne made to be drunk at every moment? Yes, the work is different but the recipe is the same, transparent: picking of ripe grapes in the best terroirs in the Champagne region, extreme care during the harvest, cold must settling to eliminate lies, no work or additive except a protection sulfiting and a very slight filtering to keep the most of the substance and then, the House Giraud’s own gesture, unique in Champagne making: This vintage for friends won’t age in casks but they will spend 12 months in thermo-regulated tanks. The pleasure is here ! it’s easy to make good wine when you respect and like those who are going to drink it: here is the spirit “ESPRIT” (in French) of the Maison Giraud-Hémart.
Claude Giraud.
WINE ANALYSIS
A distinctly golden colour enhanced by paler tinges: typical of a mature Pinot Noir wine.
Very fine, fast-moving lines of bubbles forming an abundant mousse.
An extremely attractive appearance.
Initially, a nose of remarkable intensity: hints of fruit (pear, peach), vanilla and spices (white pepper) against a background of cristallized lemon which adds a touch of freshness.
After aeration, two distinguishing qualities become apparent: maturity (straw, wild mushrooms, undergrowth) and sweetmeats (marshmallow, frangipane and kirsch).
In short, a very mature, delicate and well-structured nose.
After 20 minutes, the test of exposure to air is entirely satisfactory and predominantly mentholated.
The bubbles remain in evidence and become extremely fine.
A strong personality: distinctive, generous, seductive and self-assertive.
On the palate: the attack is fresh and pleasantly supple. Very good but unobtrusive acidity, allowing the remarkable vinosity of the wine to develop to the full. The well-balanced acidity: sugar (inconspicuous) harmonizes well with the natural suppleness of the wine. The dosage is practically imperceptible.
In addition, the effervescence is perfectly incorporated into the wine, enhancing the sensation of softness in the mouth.
The mineral element is detectable as are the tannins which make their contribution to the final structure, while the delicate texture develops into one of well-balanced density.
The finish is long (aromatic persistance: 7 to 8 caudalies) vinous and warm with an agreeable silky astringency.
The retro-olfaction opens out with aromas of bitter almond and biscuit.
ASSESSMENT
This is a wine of great character, full of life and vigour. Generous, open-hearted, uncomplicated but at the same time subtle and complex.
A romantic wine that could be compared to the music of Verdi.
It has a valuable role to play in gastronomy and may be served with delicious, creamy entrées, calf’s liver, succulent white meat or a ripe soft cheese.
It is also a welcome addition to an informal reunion with friends or a party to celebrate a special occasion.
Tasting : 14th October 2005
Franck WOLFERT – VINS & ATMOSPHERES - MAILLY-CHAMPAGNE – 03 26 07 72 44
|
